RAW files from a Canon, Nikon, Sony, or Fujifilm camera store unprocessed sensor data — more information than a JPG, but in a format that most apps, websites, and non-photographers can't open. Converting to JPG makes the file universally accessible without needing Lightroom or Photoshop.
What RAW files actually contain
A RAW file is the direct output of the camera sensor before any processing is applied. It stores full color data for every pixel at 12-14 bits per channel, compared to 8 bits per channel in a JPG. This gives photographers more flexibility in post — recovering blown highlights, pulling detail from shadows, correcting white balance without quality loss.
The trade-off is that RAW files are proprietary and large. A RAW file from a 24-megapixel camera is typically 25-35 MB. The same shot as a JPG is 5-10 MB. RAW files also require specific software to open: the camera manufacturer's app, Adobe Lightroom, or a converter that knows the format.
RAW formats by camera brand
Canon uses CR2 for older cameras (anything before roughly 2018) and CR3 for newer models. Nikon RAW files are NEF. Sony uses ARW. Fujifilm's format is RAF. Olympus and OM System cameras output ORF. Pentax uses PEF. DNG (Digital Negative) is Adobe's open RAW standard — some cameras shoot natively to DNG, and many workflows convert proprietary RAW to DNG for archival.
The format determines which software can open the file. A NEF from a Nikon Z9 may not open in older versions of Lightroom or Windows Photo Viewer — manufacturers release new RAW variants with each camera generation, and software needs to update to support them. A generic online converter that handles multiple formats sidesteps this version compatibility problem.
RAW vs JPG: what you trade for flexibility
Shooting RAW gives you more data to work with in editing. If a photo is slightly underexposed, you can recover 2-3 stops of shadow detail in Lightroom without visible noise. With JPG, that headroom is gone — the sensor data was discarded when the camera processed the file. RAW is the correct format if you're editing the photos seriously.
JPG is the correct format for delivery. Clients, social platforms, websites, and most people you send photos to can't do anything with a RAW file. The standard workflow is: shoot RAW, edit in Lightroom or similar, export as JPG for delivery. When you need to skip the editing step — for quick sharing, web upload, or compatibility — converting RAW directly to JPG is the shortcut.
How to convert RAW to JPG online
For Canon CR2 files, use the CR2 to JPG converter. For Nikon NEF files, use the NEF to JPG converter. For Sony ARW, use the ARW to JPG converter. Upload the RAW file, select your quality setting, and download the JPG.
Processing happens server-side using ImageMagick, which handles the demosaicing and applies the camera's default tone curve. The result is equivalent to exporting from the camera's own software at default settings — correct colors, standard sharpening, no creative processing applied.
Quality and color space considerations
For web sharing, quality 85-90 preserves all the detail visible on screen at a fraction of the file size. For archival or if you might edit the JPG further, quality 92-95 gives you more headroom. EXIF metadata — including date, camera model, lens data, and GPS if your camera records it — transfers to the JPG output.
Color space defaults to sRGB, which is correct for web and most screen display. If your camera shoots in Adobe RGB and your workflow requires it, note that the online converter applies standard sRGB output. For color-critical work needing wide-gamut output, a desktop application with color profile control is the better tool.
When to convert and when to keep RAW
Keep the RAW file. Always. Deleting a RAW to save space is a one-way door — you can always make a new JPG from the RAW, but you can't recover the original sensor data from a JPG. Convert to JPG for sharing, delivery, and web upload. The RAW stays on your drive as the original.